The Truth About Costs in Ecuador
By Dan Prescher
By Dan Prescher
The
other day my wife and I went out for lunch. We live in a small craft
village in the northern Andes of Ecuador, and one of our options is a
place called El Convento. It's in the tidy little tiled and terraced courtyard of a former convent in back of the large church at the center of town.
The menu is fixed and changes daily. When we stopped in, our menu started with locro de haba,
a lightly creamed soup of fava beans, potatoes, cabbage, and chicken
stock with a short pork rib thrown in for good measure. Like most locros served in Ecuador, it came with a side of popcorn and aji,
the local hot sauce. Popcorn is a snack and also a garnish here, and
the hot sauces are homemade… No two are alike, they vary in spiciness,
and none are tomato based, but all are delicious.
Then came the main plate of grilled pork cutlet, carrot salad, mashed potatoes flavored with achiote,
and rice. We often get potatoes and rice together up here in the
mountains; our village is 8,000 feet above sea level, and a double side
of starches just seems right for the altitude somehow. In any case, we
never seem to gain weight up here no matter what we eat.
Dessert was a couple of slices of fresh watermelon, and it all came with a large glass of fresh fruit juice.
Total cost, $2.50 each. Five bucks for lunch for two.
That's a pretty common story here. Many restaurants serve lunches that you couldn't make yourself at home for the price.
I
tell this story with trepidation, because some people will read it and
figure that Ecuador is just a place to get a cheap lunch, and they'll
extrapolate that into thinking Ecuador is also a place to get cheap
rent, cheap groceries, cheap furniture, cheap airfares, cheap condos,
cheap houses, etc. etc.
In fact, they'll get the idea that Ecuador is simply a cheap place, and that is categorically wrong.
Like
every other place on the planet, you can spend as little or as much
money as you like in Ecuador. There are ridiculously inexpensive lunch
places everywhere you go…as well as expensive, upscale restaurants that
serve the most exotic dishes imaginable featuring cuisines from around
the world.
There are tiny little tiendas and sprawling mercados
where you can get rice, beans, corn, fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh
chicken, pork, beef, and fish for low prices. And there are
supermarkets and big box stores where you can get all the pricey
imported (and therefore highly tariffed) foods and liquors you care to
stock up on.
There
are terrific real estate bargains to be had in gorgeous locations both
in the mountains and on Ecuador's miles of Pacific Coast beaches, but
there are also fabulous (and fabulously expensive) condos and houses in
very trendy and upscale neighborhoods throughout the country.
So
when I tell you about the fabulous $2.50 lunch we had in our little
village, you won't be surprised when I tell you that in the same village
you can also dine on gourmet cuisine at a five-star restaurant with
French wine and immaculately choreographed service and spend a hundred
dollars or more for two people.
Go to Quito or Cuenca or Guayaquil, and you can spend just as much on any kind of cuisine you can imagine.
I
tell you all this because I want to make it clear: We don't live in
Ecuador because it's the cheapest place on the planet. We live here
because we love this country, its culture, its people, its weather, and
its scenery.
Ecuador
also happens to offer incredible affordability…but the affordability is
partly something we bring here ourselves. It's the result of the
choices we make.
We
could just as easily choose to live richly expensive lives here. And
sometimes we do. We like to splurge every now and then, and Ecuador
offers just as many luxurious and expensive options in every category of
life as any other country.
So,
in my opinion, choosing Ecuador as a place to live and retire simply
because it can be done inexpensively is missing the point. You can live
any way you choose here, but it's Ecuador itself that makes this an
incredible place to be.
The
$2.50 lunches—and all the other choices we have here that allow us to
live well on $1,500 per month—are icing on the cake for us. Don't get me
wrong, it's wonderful icing. Terrific icing. Often unbelievable icing.
But icing nonetheless. Ecuador is the cake beneath that icing, and
that's what makes it so special to us. Believe me, there are places I
would not live even if we could get by on less.
We don't live here just because it can be inexpensive. We live here because it's Ecuador.
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