A Growing Expat Community and Affordable Living in Lake-Side Costa Rica
By Jason Holland
By Jason Holland
As
I came over the last hill on the road from Tilaran, a small town about
10 minutes from the shore of Lake Arenal, I could see what makes Arenal
so special. The stunning lake vistas opened up before me...
Most
of the land here is forest, pasture, or farm—split by rivers, streams,
and rocky waterfalls...natural and unspoiled. And it has that small-town
feel, where strangers say "Buenas tardes" as you walk through
town or wave if you drive by. Where proud homeowners sit on the porches
of tidy homes that dot the lakeshore, offering great views of the water,
with gardens full of hydrangeas, bromeliads, ginger, and other vivid
blooms.
In
the village of Nuevo Arenal (the expat hub for the northern side of the
lake) new restaurants had opened up. And there were certainly plenty of
"gringo" faces when I stocked up at the grocery store, stopped for a
coffee and loaf of bread at the bakery, and had lunch (a tasty Greek
salad for $8.50) at Moya's Place, a popular eatery. Despite these new
developments, the tranquil, bucolic character of the place was intact.
There's
a lot to like about Arenal and in my book, it's an ideal spot to live.
This was confirmed to me as I traveled along the shore of this
33-square-mile lake (it's about 18 miles from end to end) along the
curving, narrow two-lane road that is the area's main artery (with not
much traffic, by the way).
The
expat community here, though growing, is still very close-knit. Local
watering hole Karacters Bar and Grill, in downtown Nuevo Arenal, is a
gathering spot any hour of the day, as is the traditional Costa Rican
restaurant Tinajas, which also serves plenty of international fare. This
open-air restaurant is down a rough dirt road and then up a somewhat
steep hill outside of town. But the pay-off is a clear view of the lake
through the onsite garden where they grow many of their ingredients.
With warm weather
year-round, Arenal has an eternal spring-like climate. Most days with
highs in the 80s, lows dipping to the 70s so no air conditioning needed.
The
countryside is rich with wildlife. Toucans flew by the home I was
staying in almost daily—they favored a specific tree down the hill. The
lakeshore itself is virtually undeveloped, with setback from the shore
for construction required by law. There are no large resorts here, no
tall condo towers and the construction is appropriate and blends in with
the scenery.
It's
still affordable here too. Cost of living remains some of the lowest in
the country, on par with the epicenter of expat life on a budget in the
country, the Central Valley. Farmers' markets and produce stands offer
fresh fruit and vegetables—you'll spend about $30 to $40 a week to fill
the fridge. And because Arenal is a rural region, and still very
agricultural, you can also get fresh milk and dairy products from your
neighbors.
Real
estate is affordable as well, to rent or buy. You'll get a two-bedroom
home in a private development with a lake-view from the expansive porch
(this is a must-have if you live in Arenal) is listed at $179,000.
Renting a fully furnished, two-bedroom home with a lake-view costs
$1,000 a month.
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