Rent in This Vibrant, Colonial Town From $350 a Month
By Kirsten Raccuia
By Kirsten Raccuia
From
the air as your plane descends, you see banana trees of every shade of
green stretching as far as the eye can see, flanked by cobalt-blue
waters dotted with fishing boats.
Lots
of foreigners have landed before me in this quaint ocean-side town of
about 120,000 locals and 4,500 expats. It's famed for its energy and
vibrance, thanks to seven universities and colleges. But the biggest
draw for expats is a seriously affordable cost of living.
In
the local language, the name of the town means "to snatch." Legend has
it that pirates used to raid the area and abscond not just with the
treasures of the land, but also with all the beautiful, unwed ladies.
Thankfully,
there are no more pirates today, but that doesn't mean this place has
lost its Old World feel. In some ways it still feels like a Spanish
town, with its wide, tree-lined promenade, old churches, and bell tower.
You'll find old colonial-era buildings around town, too.
Of
course, a lot has changed since the Spanish ruled here. Not the
weather, though. This has always been a tropical island; summer highs
average around 91 F, and even in winter temperatures rarely fall below
73 F.
It's
an easy town to explore by foot; there's no need for a car or scooter.
But you can hail a tricycle, or scooter with a sidecar, to take you
around for a nominal fee—you can negotiate, but it never costs more than
a few dollars.
At
the heart of town is a wide, waterfront promenade and beautiful old
trees arching toward the ocean. The old, white lampposts light it up at
night, perfect for a stroll along the water or to just sit and watch the
boats come in. It's the kind of place where you mosey, you meander, but
you don't hurry. There is just no need.
Many
expats meet in the restaurants and bars along the boulevard. It's the
best place to take advantage of the cool ocean breezes. This is where
you'll find some of the town's best restaurants for local and
international food. For example, if you feel like Mexican food, there's a
place that serves tacos and burritos from $2.50 to $3.90 a plate, and a
local beer will cost about 90 cents.
This
town also has a bustling public market with over 900 stalls. You can
find anything here. All the locals, as well as most expats, shop here.
It's the center of life for shopping and daily socializing. You can get
your hair cut at the barber for 90 cents or get an old-fashioned shave
with a straight razor for 78 cents.
After
getting your manicure, pedicure, and your hair colored, you can go
shopping at the very next stall to get your garlic for dinner for less
than $1 a pound. If you are looking for fresh, local fruits and
vegetables, there is no better place to buy them than at this market.
There are so many competing vendors that you can—and even should—haggle
for a better price on everything. For chicken or fish, go to the local
Robinsons grocery store, where you can buy chicken breast for $1.64 a
pound or snapper for $4.50 a pound.
Rent
will be your largest expense when living here. You can easily rent a
three-bedroom, two-bathroom condo in the heart of town for as little as
$100 to $350 a month, although the quality and furnishings may vary. The
most expensive—but by far the nicest—places I saw were beautiful, new
townhouses just north of town. They had four bedrooms and three
bathrooms, with about 2,000 square feet of space. They came unfurnished
for $560, but they are well worth the money if you need a large space
and want something modern.
And
almost everything else is extremely affordable. A cleaning lady is $3
to $4 a day, and a gardener for that nice beach house will only be about
$4 to $5 a day. With all that left-over money, it would be a shame not
to indulge in a massage or a facial at the spa for $5.50 and $4.50,
respectively. And for $56 a night you can get a private room in the best
private hospital in town.
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