A Grand 17th-Century Townhome for $180,000 in the Alentejo
By Eoin Bassett
By Eoin Bassett
I'm
a cynic. I've traveled enough and read enough about travels to firmly
doubt most things. Like my grandpa used to say: "Believe none of what
you hear and only half of what you see." But I've seen the light.
That
is, I've seen the rose-hued glow of an Alentejo sky and it really does
have the "special quality" touted by the guidebooks.
Something about this region's place on the globe no doubt...latitudes, longitudes...
Or maybe it's magic.
Or maybe it's magic.
The
Alentejo is a magical part of Portugal. You'll find walled medieval
towns and cliff-hanging villages that glow brilliant white. In the shade
of holm and cork oak trees, pigs snuffle for acorns. In spring wild
flowers carpet the ground. It feels uncrowded, undiscovered, and a
little bit lost in time.
Evora
is the capital of the Alentejo. I've seen a lot of old heritage towns
but Evora is something special. It's a university town anchored by a
roman temple, studded with 17th- century mansions and surrounded by a
medieval wall.
Buildings
are white and fringed with borders of pastel-yellow. Orange trees
provide shade in plazas and squares. The pace of life here is seductive.
The food is delicious. And the cost of living is very low. It's
convenient and civilized, with a fish market, a fruit market, and free
WiFi in public places.
You'll
find tourists here. The country's most visited region, the Algarve, is
only a few hours drive to the south. Evora's historic center is
suffering what some call "the curse of UNESCO." Being named a heritage
site by this UN body means a property can be costly to renovate, update,
or modernize. That's one reason you'll find so many empty properties in
the old town.
I found this fixer-upper in the Santo Antao district going for $180,000.
It's 3,767 square feet and inside you'll find walls decorated with the hand-painted tiles the region is famous for.
If
a labor of love doesn't suit you and you fancy something more turn-key,
there's an 847-square-foot, two-bedroom town home in the historic
center going for $99,000. It's just a three-minute walk from one of
Evora's most pleasant squares, the Praca do Geraldo.
Once used by the Inquisition for executions, this square is now the ideal place for a custard tart and a coffee.
If
you want a bigger property, one in good order, then $250,000 is the
asking price for a four-bedroom townhouse just outside the historic
center close to the university. It's 2,336 square feet.
Many
foreign buyers prefer to get out into the villages of the Alentejo.
You'll find all sorts of fixer-uppers but also some stylish country
homes.
To
really spare no expense, then just 15 minutes' drive from Evora is a
typical Alentejo farmhouse with four bedrooms and three bathrooms. It
has been totally modernized and sits on two acres with a swimming pool
and plenty of outbuildings. The asking price is $440,000
but...well...that's the "asking" price.
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