Buy in France's Valley of the Kings For $95,000
By Steenie Harvey
By Steenie Harvey
I'm
at Fontevraud Abbey in France's Loire Valley, gazing at the face of a
man who left this world over 800 years ago. Fontevraud was the final
resting place of Richard the Lionheart—or at least most of him. Arguably
the most famous of England's Plantagenet rulers, the crusader king died
in 1199. If his reclining effigy is a true likeness, he was a handsome
brute.
He
probably didn't look quite so handsome after being partitioned. In the
crazy days of the early Middle Ages, removing the organs of aristocratic
corpses—a practice known as partitioning—was fairly common. So Rouen
got Richard's heart. Châlus got his entrails. And Fontevraud Abbey got
the lion's share of what was left.
500 years before Moses received the Ten Commandments, the scribes of
Babylon created a tool that’s helped thousands of people build personal
wealth throughout history.
The Rockefeller family, Hillary Clinton, John McCain...
Even celebrities such as John Belushi and Andy Warhol have relied on this ancient script to build their legacies.
Presided over by a succession of Abbesses for almost 700 years, Fontevraud is the largest abbey complex in Europe. Its 35-acre demesne once contained both monasteries and nunneries, and a sizeable settlement grew up beside it.
Surrounded
by forests and vineyards and with châteaux in every direction, the
village of Fontevraud l'Abbaye is a charmer. And it's lively. Concerts
are held at the abbey throughout the year—everything musical from rock
to baroque. It's used as a cultural center, too. Should you go before
next May, don't miss Julian Salaud's La crypte des effraies ("the crypt of the owls"), a stunning art installation that will delight your inner goth.
From
gourmet dining to cheery cafes, options for eating out in the village
are plentiful. As it gets rave reviews, I wanted to try Le Restaurant in
the Abbey's former priory. Its head chef is Thibaut Ruggeri who won
2013's Bocuse d'Or gastronomic prize, but it only opens for Sunday lunch
and in the evenings. With so many places along the Loire to
investigate, I had to move on. I could only salivate at the thought of
what pigeons covered with a cognac marzipan must taste like.
Thanks
to the Lorie Valley's historic links with royalty and medieval
nobility, it's often assumed that properties here must have a price tag
to match. Not true. One of my real estate contacts has a small house
(731 square feet) with an open plan living areas, two bedrooms, and a
bathroom in Fontevraud l'Abbaye for $94,500, and $150,000 delivers a lot
of options.
In
the village of Samur, 15 minutes away, is a two-bedroom apartment in a
restored 17th-century building. Located on the riverside there's an
open-plan living, kitchen, and dining area, and small garden for
$123,700. Samur is a town with a storybook chateau of white stone, a
weekly market, and vineyards on its doorstep.
Affordable
homes in such a lovely area aren't the only surprise. Although I'd read
about Fontevraud's effigies, I knew nothing about the abbey's later
history. So I didn't realize that until relatively recently, its
cloistered inner courtyard was where bad boys took their exercise. Not
long after revolutionaries sent the last Abbess packing in 1792,
Napoleon Bonaparte transformed the complex into a prison. You wouldn't
guess now, but it remained one until 1963.
And
it was one of France's toughest. Although he served his own prison
sentences elsewhere, the writer Jean Genet (a petty thief and male
prostitute in his younger days) kept louche company. An exhibition is
dedicated to the abbey's prison days and Jean Genet himself. Even into
the 1950s, prison life was harsh. Lunch normally consisted of potato and
cabbage soup, cigarettes were limited to three per day, and violent
inmates were crammed into impossibly small structures nicknamed "hen's
cages."
A
heartless king, owls in a crypt, and ghastly tales of prison life—I
couldn't wish for more. Whenever I explore places like Fontevraud, it's
always a perfect day. Yes, even without pigeons in cognac marzipan.
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