By Jessica Ramesch
Since
I moved to Panama 10 years ago, the islands of Bocas del Toro have
become one of my favorite vacation spots of all time. It's just an
hour-long flight from Panama City...though I've also driven the scenic
seven hours or so to the launch point of Almirante, where you can get a
30-minute water taxi to the main island.
I've
traveled extensively throughout the Caribbean...St. Thomas, Grand
Cayman, Martinique...you name it, I've probably been there. But for me,
none of them can hold a candle to Bocas del Toro.
My ideal day in Bocas is simple. I wake up on the main island, Isla Colon, and walk to the corner store for a $1 pipa.
These soft green coconuts are filled with a "water" that's touted for
its health benefits. In fact, local lore has it that, in a pinch, you
can substitute it for IV fluid. It's cool and refreshing and delicious.
Next
I might walk to Bluff beach or shell out $20 for an all-day excursion
to a couple of different islands and snorkeling spots. I love the
colorful parrotfish, fluttering anemones, and knobby coral...the smell
of salt in the air...and the graceful seabirds gliding on the wind.
After
a day of splashing in the sun, there's nothing better than sipping a
50-cent Panama beer while you dig your toes in the sand and take in the
turquoise hues of the warm Caribbean. That is, unless you talk to the
fish, shrimp, and lobster lovers who come here to feast on fresh
seafood.
Despite the bohemian types
that trickle through, it's still the kind of place I describe as
untouristy and most definitely unspoiled. No big name resorts or
concrete jungles here...and there are no hurricanes, ever. The beaches
are never over-crowded, and you can often have stretches entirely to
yourself.
Indigenous
Ngabe tribes live here, along with a large community of
Afro-Antillean-descended locals, and a vibrant, social expat community.
Hotels, cafes, bars and restaurants, live music, and yearly festivals
keep visitors and residents entertained.
However,
people go about their daily lives scarcely affected by the modern
world. Sure, they have cell phones and email accounts. But they don't
spend every second checking them. The pace of life here is blissfully
languid...no rat race allowed. The motto you'll hear most: cero estrés...zero stress.
The
vibe is addictive, and many a visitor has ended up staying permanently.
If you are similarly tempted, I don't recommend buying property.
Purchase prices are relatively low for a stunning Caribbean destination.
But unlike the rest of Panama, where titled property is easy to
research, rights of possession are often under dispute here.
Still,
with houses for rent for as little as $500 a month, there are plenty of
options for long-term housing. The cost of living can be very low, as
well. I know one expat couple who live in Bocas full time and spend
about $200 a month on power, water, internet, gas for cooking...the
total monthly overhead on their home.
Island
living is more expensive than mainland living, as supplies are brought
in by boat. But I'd estimate the cost of living in Bocas is as much as
50% lower than in other more touristy Caribbean destinations, like the
Bahamas.
I've
been tempted—more than once—to move to Bocas. To live life in shorts,
t-shirts, and flip-flops...and there's no need to own a car. Each time I
visit, the easy, cero estrés lifestyle calls to me more and more.
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