Get the Galapagos Experience...Without the High Price Tag
By Connie Pombo
By Connie Pombo
If
you don't have thousands of dollars to pour into a Galapagos cruise,
consider Isla de la Plata (Silver Island), affectionately termed the
Poor Man's Galapagos. The island supposedly derives its name from the
centuries-old buried treasure of Sir Francis Drake, but my husband,
Mark, and I haven't found it—yet.
Isla
de la Plata is about 25 miles—an hour's boat ride—from Puerto Lopez in
the Machalilla National Park and contains some of the same flora and
fauna found on the Galapagos...except the price tag is far less. In
fact, the total cost for the day's "cruise" is only $25 to $35 per
person.
Myself and Mark first
discovered Isla de la Plata while we were vacationing in Puerto Lopez at
Hosteria Mandala, run by an Italian-Swiss couple. When we stay there,
we always ask for the Galapagos Suite, which includes a huge balcony
draped in bougainvillea that overlooks the Pacific Ocean.
All
the cabins at the Mandala are tucked away in a botanical garden where
iguanas hide in the trees and exotic flowers line the well-manicured
walking paths. It's an oasis of tranquility. The restaurant on the
premises is for guests only and the private beach is yours to
enjoy—complete with colorful hammocks, cabanas, and breathtaking
sunsets.
Day
trips to Isla de la Plata can be arranged with one of the many
tour-boat operators in Puerto Lopez. Excursions leave at 8:30 a.m. and
return at 5:30 p.m. and include snacks, drinks, lunch, and snorkeling in
Drake's Bay, where sea turtles and colorful fish are your companions
for the afternoon. And if you book a trip during whale season (June to
September), you can marvel at the humpback whales breaching the water
and blowing off some "steam."
Once
you're on the island, there are two main hiking trails, which are led
by naturalist guides. An added perk to making the trip in July is it's
mating season on the island—especially for the frigate birds with their
red throats that balloon up to attract attention and the blue-footed
boobies with their Tiffany-colored webbed feet that perform an
unforgettable mating dance.
The
island is much like the Galapagos with its rugged shoreline of volcanic
rock and sweeping vistas of the turquoise-blue waters. The lower trail
allows you to see more of the island's ocean life close up—like the
playful sea lions—and the upper trail is a bit more strenuous with
breathtaking panoramic views.
All
the tours on the island are conducted by professional guides and the
trails are well marked and easy to follow. There are restrooms and a
changing station on the island for your convenience, but no overnight
accommodations. Our group enjoyed lunch on the boat after our long hike
and then snorkeling in the emerald-blue waters of Drake's Bay where we
swam alongside sea turtles and tropical fish.
Isla
de la Plata can be reached from various spots along the Ecuadorian
coastline, but we prefer the sleepy fishing village of Puerto Lopez,
which is only a three- to four-hour bus ride from Guayaquil.
Some
of the most magical moments we've had in Ecuador have taken place along
the Ruta del Sol (Ecuador's coastline) and Isla de la Plata. If you
don't have the time or money to do a cruise to the Galapagos, then Isla
de la Plata is a treasure you can't afford to miss.
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