Leading a Culture-Rich Retirement in Vibrant Oaxaca
By Tricia A. Mitchell

"The people, food, and of course the weather here, all attracted us to Mexico," says Marilyn Albright, 72, who previously taught English as a Second Language (ESL) classes at a community college in Alaska.

Given her background, Marilyn developed an interest in teaching English in Mexico and first moved to Guadalajara and Colima to teach ESL students.

"David was still working in Alaska at the time, so while I was teaching in Mexico I traveled to other regions and towns of Mexico, scouting possibilities for retirement living," says Marilyn. "I had read about Oaxaca and was intrigued."

When David, 67, retired eight years ago, the couple headed to Oaxaca City, in southwestern Mexico, for the first time and became enamored with the cultural hotspot, which is home to 260,000 people. They were seduced by Oaxaca's exceptional food and pleasant weather, teamed with its vibrant fiestas, arts, and textiles. Ever since, the couple have spent six months out of every year in Oaxaca.

Marilyn and David are enjoying their part-time Oaxaca retirement.

Marilyn and David live in an apartment compound with 18 units in Oaxaca's city center, not far from the Zócalo (main plaza). There are restaurants, shops, galleries, and markets nearby, and the couple's neighbors come from diverse backgrounds.

Oaxaca's historic center—which is characterized by cobbled lanes, colorful homes, graceful churches, and attractive squares—was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1987.

Marilyn and David rent their apartment on a full-time basis even though they are only there for half of the year. They pay $400 per month. There is also a monthly utilities fee of $65, which covers electricity, propane, water, and the internet. When they are away from the apartment for an extended period of time, they still have to pay the monthly utilities fee, but it's reduced to about $50.

"The rents in Oaxaca vary widely and have definitely risen in the eight years that we have been coming here," says Marilyn. "The Airbnb growth has affected things also, as it has done in many places. Apartments in El Centro, the historical district, are generally higher than in more outlying areas, because that's where all the interesting action takes place."

Marilyn says that Oaxaca offers ample opportunities for socializing—whether it be with Oaxaca locals, or fellow expats. "Social life is much more active in Oaxaca than Alaska because people are much closer together. In our complex there are many impromptu get-togethers or short conversations, and it's easy to meet friends for a beer or a supper out," she says.

"The Oaxaca Lending Library, which was started many years ago by expats, is the place to go for meeting people and connecting with groups that share interests. They offer lectures, food events on holidays, short travel experiences, and the hiking program is also now organized through the library. They post a newsletter every week with social, music, art, and performing arts events in the city.

"There are often food events here too, which are wonderful because Oaxaca is famous, even in Mexico, for its fantastic food. From street vendors to gourmet restaurants, a person would never be able to try them all."

Marilyn says that Oaxaca also offers entertainment in the form of music and art events, adding that some museums are also "very low-cost or free on Sundays."

As for Oaxaca's cost of living, Marilyn says that it can be "quite reasonable," depending upon one's lifestyle.

"Monthly rents can be anywhere from a couple of hundred dollars to over $1,000. This is dependent on where in the city and in what type of a house or apartment a person wants to live. Food, produce in particular, is fresh and inexpensive, especially in comparison to Alaska where almost all the food is imported, some of it from Mexico," she explains.

Marilyn and David do a lot of walking on a day-to-day basis. "Public transportation is readily available and affordable (for most people) in any place I have ever been in Mexico," says Marilyn. "No matter where you want to go, you can find a way to get there, and sometimes the transportation is as much fun as the destination.

"I know people who bring their cars to Mexico, but we do not. For us it's totally unnecessary and not having a car here saves a lot of money and hassles. In the city we walk almost everywhere, and if it's too far there are plenty of buses and taxis. You can get lots of exercise just doing your daily routines plus you see interesting places and meet people along the way. There are buses and colectivos (shared cars or vans with set prices) that travel to other towns. Long distance bus travel throughout Mexico is wonderful—buses and bus stations are clean, comfortable, plentiful, and it's a great way to see the country."

Marilyn and David also enjoy venturing beyond Oaxaca. They've explored states like Chiapas and the Yucatán, and have hiked in the outskirts of Oaxaca.

"We have gone on many hikes in the mountains that surround the city, and several villages have cabins for spending the night," she says. "The city is over 5,000 feet in altitude, and many villages are situated in the surrounding mountains, some at altitudes of 10,000 to 11,000 feet. Most of the hiking we have done is in these areas, and we lowlanders do a lot of huffing and puffing."

Marilyn and David's habit of exploring new corners of Mexico reflects their advice to potential expats that they get to know a region before committing to it for the long-term. "Living in a place is much different than being on vacation," Marilyn says. "But the people here are so friendly, kind, and welcoming. The thing I love most about Mexico is how comfortable I feel. As long as it suits us both, we'll continue living here."